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September 1, 2023 by David E. Hultstrom

Bucket Strategies, etc.

A fellow advisor wrote in a professional online forum last year, “[I]n rocky times I turn off dividend reinvestment and let the cash build so if they need money from me, we don’t have to sell principal.”

I want to comment not only on that, but also on so-called bucket strategies that I don’t think I’ve written up anywhere.

This strategy doesn’t make any sense. (Mathematically, that is. It may feel good emotionally to “do something” rather than just strategically rebalance.)

When a company pays a dividend, the stock price goes down by the amount of the dividend. You are essentially selling the stock. Imagine a company that paid no dividends, and you sold an amount equal to their earnings yield. That is equivalent (mathematically) to not reinvesting the dividends of a company with a 100% payout ratio. But I don’t think anyone would think selling some shares of AMZN or BRK isn’t selling.

Now I suspect what was meant was at the asset class (not company) level. But still, why would changing the asset allocation (from stocks to cash) by an amount that happens to be equal to the dividend yield be optimal? When dividend yields are 1.3% (2021) that’s the right amount to go to cash (annually) but when they are 7.4% (1950) that’s the right number?

Are we avoiding invading principal in real or nominal terms? So today you need to reinvest everything (plus some) to maintain a real principal balance or in the 1970’s you can spend all your “income” even though the purchasing power of the portfolio is plummeting? Both seem silly, but you get either one silly outcome or the other if you follow these types of rules. The 4% rule (and most variations) and MPT are based on expected returns and risk. There is no place for “but the return comes from dividends not appreciation so it’s different.” It’s not different. Total return matters, not yield (except as a component of the total return).

In addition, “in rocky times” probably means the market is already down so you are (effectively) selling stocks lower. (Unless this is an actual VIX strategy that actively allocates based on the VIX and goes more to cash when stocks spike up as well as down.)

This is actually just disguised market timing because you have to make a subjective call on “rocky” and “not rocky” – not only to stop/start dividend reinvestment, but also to determine when to redeploy the cash that has accumulated.

Similarly, some advisors (including some I respect) employ a “bucket strategy” that divides the client’s funds into short-term and long-term buckets (and sometimes into intermediate-term too). While I’m sure that has psychological benefit, I don’t think it works the way people think. The idea (as I understand it) is that the client has some amount in cash to cover the next 2-5 years of expenses, so they don’t have to sell if/when the market is down.

First, that is market timing (again) because it makes the decision of when to replenish the cash account subjective (it implies you can tell when the market is “too low” to replenish the cash). If you always keep X years in cash then it’s just an allocation with a fixed dollar amount in cash – which seems odd, and I don’t think that has any empirical support in the literature as an optimal allocation strategy.

Second, it doesn’t work that way! In any significant downturn you would be buying stocks even after taking a draw, not selling them. Here’s the math:

Suppose we have a client who is 60/40 stocks/bonds with a 4% initial draw. Assume the market value of the 40% doesn’t change. How much would the 60% have to decline before we are buying stocks anyway? 10%. Let’s use dollars. On a $1 million portfolio, the $600k declines to $540k. $40k is withdrawn from bonds (you are overweight bonds now) for the client’s living expenses, leaving $360k. Total portfolio value is $900k. $540k/$900k is 60% and (obviously) $360k/$900k is 40%. Any decline larger than 10% in stocks would lead to buying stocks to rebalance back to target.

In short, if you rebalance, you can skip the bucket strategy as it makes no sense (mathematically) unless the investor has a pretty high equity allocation, or a pretty high withdrawal rate. I think people just say this because it sounds smart, but they never actually thought about it and certainly didn’t do any math!

At a 20% stock underperformance relative to bonds, you would need an 8% withdrawal rate (off the original values, which would be over 9% of the current values) before you were selling stocks. Again, the worse the bear market, the less likely you are to be selling stocks. If there is a 50% stock decline you would need a 20% withdrawal rate policy to be selling stocks (again off the original value, it would be almost 29% of the value after the drop).

But what if you were 80/20 to begin with rather than 60/40? Then on a 20% downturn you would take anything over a 4% withdrawal from the stocks (again of the original values, I’m using the “4% rule” methodology where you don’t change the withdrawal due to market returns, but I’m ignoring inflation for simplicity of exposition) and you would be “selling” in a bear market. If we are 80/20 and had a 50% market underperformance you would need a 10% withdrawal rate (pre-drop, almost 17% of the new value) before you sold any stocks.

In the most catastrophic downturns, you are never going to be selling stocks – so I have no idea what a bucket strategy is supposed to do, but I’m pretty sure it doesn’t do it.

Filed Under: uncategorized

August 1, 2023 by David E. Hultstrom

Summer Ruminations

My latest quarterly ramblings to my Financial Professionals list are out: Financial Professionals Summer 2023

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July 1, 2023 by David E. Hultstrom

Savings Rates

A newer advisor on a financial planning message board wanted to know (spelling/grammar/punctuation corrected):

As an aspiring financial planner, I am curious to know: in your professional experience as a financial planner, have you found that investments are an essential part of growing one’s wealth, or can someone achieve financial success without investing and just saving to accomplish personal goals?

And clarified later in the thread:

By “not invest,” I am referring to not holding any investment vehicle with high risk such as stocks but instead putting money into a savings account with interest to accomplish short- and long-term financial goals. In short, I would like to know if the risk of investing is worth taking for those without debt and an established emergency fund.

My response (note that this was in 2022, so the numbers for Social Security, etc. reflect that):

You can always retire (the primary “personal goal” for most people) successfully if you save enough pre-retirement and spend little enough post-retirement.

I posted this here a few months ago:

Ignoring SS, taxes, and a whole bunch of other pretty relevant things just to see what savings rate we come up with, assume a 30-year working/savings period (people don’t get started right away), a 30-year retirement period, 4% real return on the portfolio, and income, expenses, etc. rise solely with inflation (in real life you get real wage increases over your career and are probably trying to match the ending lifestyle, not the average over your whole life). Assume we want level consumption over our lifetimes (Friedman’s Permanent Income Hypothesis), then I need to set X in the two formulas to the same percentage. Here are the Excel formulas:

Saving: =FV(0.04,30,X)
Spending: =PV(0.04,30,1-X)

Remember all figures are real, not nominal, so this vastly simplifies our computations.

If you solve that, it is 23.57% which I round up to 25%.

You can quibble with the assumptions (even I would), but in a very rough way, it’s conceptually sound, I think.

If we assume that the real return is zero (i.e., that the returns on savings merely match inflation) then the formulas become:

Saving: =FV(0,30,X)
Spending: =PV(0,30,1-X)

If you solve those for X then it becomes (obviously if you think about it) 50%. Of course, you could start earlier, work longer, etc. but it gives us a starting point.

I also ignored Social Security. If you make (and live on!) $12,288/year pre-retirement (the first Social Security bend point), then upon retirement you will get 90% of that as a benefit. So, you are pretty close to matching your lifestyle (such as it is) with no savings.

Of course, no one wants to do that – even though the median global household income is about that number! ($9,733 in 2013, which, with inflation and productivity improvement, would be about that first bend point today. $12,288/$9,733^(1/9)-1=2.62% annual growth rate since 2013 to make them equivalent. Seems roughly right.)

I looked at T-bills vs. CPI to see if my intuition/recollection was correct about cash and CPI, and it is. Three-month T-bills have had a very small excess return over CPI, they matched until about 1981 and then T-bills have actually done better (until spring of 2009). Of course, there would be some taxes on the T-bill returns though.

Thus, I think zero-ish real is a good assumption for cash rates (i.e., saving rather than investing).

So, getting back to the original question: “[C]an someone achieve financial success without investing and just saving to accomplish personal goals?”

Yes, but it requires a saving rate in the vicinity of 50% (less for lower incomes because Social Security, and more for higher incomes because taxes).

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June 1, 2023 by David E. Hultstrom

Tax-Advantaged Accounts in an Inflationary Environment

I rant talk a lot about the importance of maxing out contributions to tax-advantaged accounts (IRAs, 401(k) plans, Roths, etc.). Since you can’t “catch-up” later, anytime you don’t contribute the maximum (or if you withdraw more than required) you are reducing the benefits of these accounts.

(It’s one of my four rules for guaranteed financial success.)

That probably sounds pretty anodyne, but I think this is really important and I don’t think people really grok it – particularly in an inflationary environment. The tax code imposes taxes on those phantom gains!

Let’s assume a tax rate of just 25% (it keeps the math pretty easy) and an investment with no real return (if there is a higher real return the tax-advantaged account is even better).

The United States actually already has a wealth tax of sorts created by the intersection of the tax code and inflation. At 25% tax rates and 2% inflation (the Fed’s target) we are all subject to a wealth tax of half a percent per year on many investments (the taxable ones). At an inflation rate of double that, it’s 1%. At a tax rate of 50% rather than 25% it would also double to 1%. This past year inflation was 6.5%, so for higher income people, who may have a marginal rate of around 50% in a high tax state, they have had a wealth tax of 3.25% on investments generating ordinary income that were not sheltered in retirement accounts! (Under the current tax code, if you hold investments until death you can avoid taxes on the unrealized gain portion though.)

So, in a taxable account, you lose your marginal tax bracket times the inflation rate since you bought the asset. You may have high returns so that you didn’t feel it, but the government still effectively confiscated a portion of your property if there is any inflation at all.

At zero inflation or zero tax rates you lose nothing, but as inflation and rates increase you lose more and more. But in a tax-advantaged account you lose nothing! (Assuming you don’t commingle pre-tax and after-tax funds.)

Let’s do four examples: Deductible IRA (same math as a 401(k), 403(b), etc.), Roth IRA, Taxable Account, and Non-Deductible IRA.

We’ll assume just a one-year holding period (the differences increase significantly over longer periods due to compounding), a 25% tax rate (low for ordinary income property, about right for capital gains for many people), and 10% inflation (high, but in 1980 it was 12.5%). This will show how terrible inflation is (because of the tax code). Our hypothetical investments will just keep up with inflation – so you “really” don’t make anything. Of course the math is the same if you made 10% when inflation was a low figure, but it seems particularly painful when you pay taxes when you really didn’t even get ahead!

  • Deductible IRA:
    • You make $1,000 (which would be $750 net spendable after income taxes).
    • You contribute it to your IRA and pay no taxes on it (because it was deductible).
    • The $1,000 grows 10% to become $1,100.
    • You liquidate and pay 25% in taxes or $275 leaving you with $825.
    • Recap: including all taxes, you could have $750 to spend immediately or $825 a year later. That’s 10% return.
  • Roth IRA:
    • You make $1,000 (which would be $750 net spendable after income taxes).
    • You pay $250 (25%) in income taxes and put the remaining $750 in the Roth (no deduction).
    • The $750 grows 10% to become $825.
    • You liquidate and pay no taxes (because it’s a Roth).
    • Recap: including all taxes, you could have $750 to spend immediately or $825 a year later. That’s 10% return.
  • Taxable Account:
    • You make $1,000 (which would be $750 net spendable after income taxes).
    • You pay $250 (25%) in income taxes and put the remaining $750 in the Taxable Account (no deduction).
    • The $750 grows 10% to become $825.
    • You liquidate and pay $18.75 (25%) in taxes on the $75 gain.
    • Recap: including all taxes, you could have $750 to spend immediately or $806.25 a year later. That’s 7.5% return.
  • Non-Deductible IRA:
    • You make $1,000 (which would be $750 net spendable after income taxes).
    • You pay $250 (25%) in income taxes and put the remaining $750 in the IRA (no deduction).
    • The $750 grows 10% to become $825.
    • You liquidate and pay $18.75 (25%) in taxes on the $75 gain.
    • Recap: including all taxes, you could have $750 to spend immediately or $806.25 a year later. That’s 7.5% return.

So if you use either fully deductible or fully tax-free accounts you don’t lose anything at all to taxes on growth (even phantom growth due to inflation), but if you use a taxable account or an account that is merely tax deferred, you lose your tax bracket times your growth rate each year.

(The above is an oversimplification that assumes full recognition of gains, etc. each year. Over multiple periods the non-deductible IRA will win vs. the taxable to the extent there are dividends, interest, and turnover, on the other hand, the taxable account will win vs. the non-deductible to the extent the returns are taxed as capital gains rather than ordinary income. But in all cases using a fully tax-deductible or tax-free account wins over taxable or merely tax-deferred. If your tax bracket increases though, the Roth is better, if it decreases the deductible IRA is better. Full exposition here.)

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May 1, 2023 by David E. Hultstrom

Spring Ruminations

My latest quarterly ramblings to my Financial Professionals list are out: Financial Professionals Spring 2023

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